Got questions?

Contrary to popular belief, grade isn’t about quality; it’s about appearance. Quality depends on the manufacturing process, while grade reflects visual characteristics like colour variation and knot presence. For instance, a Select grade offers superior visual uniformity, while a Rustic grade highlights natural beauty.

Neither is inherently “better”—they cater to different needs.

Solid Hardwood: Thicker (3/4 in.), it can be sanded multiple times, and it is ideal for nail-down installations (homes with wood subfloors).

Engineered Wood: Thinner (1/4 in.), it is perfect for glue-down installations (apartments, basements) and offers excellent stability, provided humidity is well-managed.

The Select and Better grade is the most uniform. However, wood is a natural material, so minor variations can occur regardless of grade or species. Our experienced installers will harmonize these variations for a balanced look.

While all hardwoods are relatively durable, some are more so than others. Refer to the relative hardness scale of woods for a reliable comparison.

Engineered Wood: Easily glued down to a concrete slab due to its stability.

Solid Hardwood: Possible, but requires a plywood or OSB subfloor for proper nailing.

No. Solid hardwood must be nailed down. You should use engineered wood for glue-down installations.

No. Particle boards don’t provide adequate nail holding. Use plywood or OSB instead (minimum 5/8 in.).

It is not recommended. A clean, flat, and solid subfloor is essential for optimal results.

No, it delays moisture migration but doesn’t act as a true vapor barrier. A proper vapor barrier is required.

Yes. Allow the wood to acclimate to ambient conditions (temperature and humidity) for at least 24 hours. Engineered wood doesn’t typically require this.

We recommend using the adhesive manufacturer’s specified cleaner. Alternatively, you can try mineral spirits, acetone, or lighter fluid. Apply these products with a clean, white cloth. Always proceed with caution and test on an inconspicuous area first to ensure they do not damage the flooring finish.

Use a cleaner specifically for varnished wood floors.

Avoid wax, household detergents, oil-based soaps, vinegar-water solutions, or steam, which can damage the finish and void the warranty.

Minimize exposure to water to prevent swelling and mold.

No. Water can damage wood, causing swelling, discoloration, and mold. Kitchens and entryways require extra care due to potential water exposure.

No. It is preferable not to as wax can damage the finish and leave a greasy film.

Yes, provided a durable wood species (such as mahogany) is selected and the dog’s nails are meticulously trimmed.

Yes, many exotic wood species undergo oxidation, resulting in a deepening of colour. Verify with your advisor if the sample colour is already mature. Oxidation typically occurs over 6-12 months.

Yes, yellowing is a natural phenomenon associated with wood aging and sun exposure. Minimize variations by periodically repositioning furniture and rugs.

Swelling or cupping is attributable to moisture variations within the planks, stemming from environmental conditions, not product defects.

Possible causes:

Excessive moisture in planks pre-installation: The planks were installed with an excessively high internal moisture level, often due to storage in a humid environment or transport in the rain.

Low relative humidity: Air humidity may be excessively low during winter, leading to shrinkage.

Excessive plank moisture before installation:

The planks may have been installed with an abnormally high internal moisture content. This can be attributed to:

• Storage in highly humid conditions (e.g., damp concrete, overly moist subfloor, freshly applied paint).
• Plank transportation and delivery during rainfall.
• Moisture absorption by the wood before installation.

Once the floor has been installed and ambient conditions normalized, the wood loses excess moisture, which can lead to shrinkage and visible gaps between the boards.

Low relative humidity:

When the air’s humidity level is too low (often during winter), the planks will lose moisture and shrink. This is a common occurrence in winter, and in most cases, the planks will return to their normal dimensions in the following season.

This is a consequence of low ambient humidity, which is prevalent during winter. Maintain a humidity level of 37-45% to mitigate these gaps.

Relative humidity: Maintain a humidity level of 37-45%.

Inadequate subfloor: Plywood or OSB is required for nail-down installations.

Insufficient subfloor thickness: A minimum of 3/4 in. is necessary for joists spaced 19 in. or less apart.

Plank direction: Install planks perpendicular to joists.

Weak structural integrity: The subfloor must be securely fastened to joists.

Insufficient fasteners: Each plank should have a minimum of 2 nails within 2 in. of the ends, ideally spaced 8 in. apart.